At STIR Medley, even the ice gets a moment in the spotlight.
Order a cocktail with the tableside ice presentation, and a server will bring over a cube, place it in a press and let diners watch as it becomes a sphere. The finished ice goes into the glass, followed by the cocktail — a little theater before the first sip.
It is an introduction to a restaurant where the details are part of the experience, from the briny liquor inside a freshly shucked oyster to the delicate crunch atop a crème brûlée.
Following preview meals on Oct. 23-25, STIR was prepared for its Oct. 29 public debut at Medley in Johns Creek. The restaurant marks the brand’s first Georgia location, bringing its combination of oysters, cocktails and scratch cooking to the developing neighborhood.
For General Manager Corbin Creighton, the setting offers an opportunity to become part of people’s routines: lunch with colleagues, weekend brunch, dinner with family or an evening drink with friends.
“If you drop the pin, it would be right on STIR,” he said of the restaurant’s place within Medley.
Room to gather
Anchoring Medley’s central Plaza, STIR spans two buildings and seats 315 guests across the restaurant and its adjoining Tonic House. The restaurant includes a bar, dining room and open-air patio, while the separate Tonic House seats 52.
The décor draws inspiration from the original STIR in Chattanooga’s historic Choo Choo Terminal Station. High ceilings, exposed beams, large windows and roll-up doors give the Johns Creek location an open, airy feel.
Next door, the Tonic House brings the restaurant’s cocktail program into a separate bar and lounge. Its patio and walk-up service window open onto the Plaza, giving visitors a place to pick up a drink while enjoying an event or gathering outside.
The Tonic House menu centers on STIR’s HighKey Tonic Syrups, inspired by 19th-century British recipes. Made with quinine and natural ingredients, the syrups can be paired with gin, vodka, tequila or rum. The restaurant also plans to offer bottles to take home.
A fresh approach to familiar favorites
During two preview visits, the kitchen demonstrated that familiar dishes can still deliver a few surprises.
The cheeseburger egg rolls arrived crisp outside and succulently cheesy and meaty inside. The filling tasted like a thoughtfully assembled burger, without an excess of onions or other additions overwhelming the beef and cheese. The accompanying dipping sauce recalled a fast-food “special sauce,” with a fresher, more balanced flavor.
At brunch, chicken and waffles offered another example of comfort food receiving careful attention. The waffle was crisp outside and fluffy within, while the chicken had a fresh-tasting coating with a light blend of herbs and spices.
Creighton said that attention begins with the restaurant’s approach to preparation.
“One of our pillars is scratch kitchens,” he said.
He described a kitchen that continually prepares ingredients according to use and shelf life, keeping freshness central to its daily work.
That care extended to the sides. Charred asparagus carried a light, savory butter glaze, while farro and roasted vegetables balanced subtle sweetness with earthy flavors. Salt and pepper were available, but neither seemed necessary.
The menu also provides choices beyond meat and seafood. A vegan poke bowl uses citrus-soy-marinated beets and sweet potatoes, while the vegetarian burger comes with smoked cheddar and lemon aioli. Diners avoiding all animal products should distinguish between the two preparations.
Oysters worth lingering over
The oyster bar deserves its own visit.
Creighton said STIR plans to keep James River house oysters from Virginia alongside five rotating specialty selections, with availability guiding the choices.
For diners hesitant about raw oysters, steamed oysters offer an approachable alternative. My mother chose that route during our Saturday visit. They retained their brininess and ocean freshness, although steaming softened some of the earthy character that oyster lovers seek.
Sunday’s raw oysters, shared with my son, delivered the full experience.
A squeeze of lemon was enough to let the oyster speak for itself. A little horseradish and cocktail sauce added bite without hiding its flavor. Returning to the shell for the remaining liquor, with a touch of mignonette, made each oyster worth savoring to the last drop.
Several dozen would have been tempting.
The STIR chopped seafood salad offered another way to enjoy the kitchen’s seafood, combining shrimp and lobster with crisp lettuces, avocado, edamame, radish and citrus vinaigrette. Crostini supplied a welcome crunch.
The sesame steak bowl took a different direction, pairing marinated beef with a rice cake, vegetables, miso kale and a fried egg.
Cocktails with something to say
STIR’s beverage program treats the ingredients around the spirit as seriously as the spirit itself.
The restaurant freezes water into 300-pound blocks of ice, then hand-carves them into cuts suited to different drinks.
Rocks, spheres, long pieces, pebbled ice and shaved ice each have a place behind the bar. House-made syrups, bitters and freshly prepared ingredients support a selection of more than 350 spirits.
My usual first test is a margarita. STIR’s 1948 Margarita passed with a balance of tequila, citrus and sweetness that allowed each element to register.
The passion fruit in the Pornstar Martini brought a bright, inviting flavor to a smooth drink, while the Whiskey Bramble offered a refreshing variation on an old-fashioned, served over plenty of crushed ice.
For brunch, substituting tequila in the Bloody Mary produced a satisfying Bloody Maria. The house mix had enough salty, tomato-rich flavor that the olive and pepper garnish complemented the drink rather than carrying it.
The Elderflower Sour was especially appealing for those who enjoy botanical flavors. Ginger and cucumber contributed to a light, refreshing accompaniment to the meal.
Nonalcoholic options receive attention, too. The menu’s Mockberry Fizz and Mint to Bee offer combinations of fruit, herbs, citrus and tonic syrups for guests seeking something more layered than a soda.
Save room for the finish
The matcha green tea cheesecake avoided the grassy intensity that can overwhelm matcha desserts. Its restrained flavor worked with the crunchy crust, whipped cream and fresh berries.
The crème brûlée was equally assured.
Its custard was smooth, creamy and delicate beneath a burnt-sugar shell that cracked cleanly without tasting bitter. For someone who prefers the classic preparation over chocolate, pumpkin or other variations, it was a thoroughly satisfying finish.
Becoming part of the neighborhood
Beyond the food and drinks, Creighton wants STIR to become a place people return to because they feel welcome.
During preparations, neighboring Shake Shack employees delivered burgers, chicken sandwiches and fries to the STIR team — an introduction that immediately had him considering how to return the favor.
Medley’s staff, from concierge and security personnel to management, had also helped set a cooperative tone, he said.
Inside the restaurant, that welcome came through in knowledgeable service and thoughtful recommendations during the previews. As part of its grand opening celebration, STIR Medley partnered with the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation to raise awareness and invite guests to support its mission.
For Creighton, the long view includes the kind of relationships he has seen at STIR’s original Chattanooga location, where guests he first served years ago remain regulars.
Whether diners come for oysters, brunch or a cocktail with its own ice show, the ambition is much the same: Give them a reason to make the next visit part of their routine.
STIR Medley is at 3165 Medley Blvd., Johns Creek. Lunch and dinner are offered daily, with brunch from 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Valet parking is available, and the outdoor area is dog-friendly. The restaurant also offers private events and offsite catering; for information, email events@stirmedley.com. Visit stirmedley.com or call 470-945-5323.
